I stood on the tiny concrete-pad-and-canvas-awning porch that makes up the front of M&M Barbecue here in Knoxville, Tennessee. At M&M you don't sit down and eat. In fact, you don't even stand up and eat. The place is so small that you're forced to make your choices at an order window and take your stuff home. But, oh, it's worth it. That's why every time I stop by the place I stand in a line of at least seven to ten people.
"I've seen you here before, buddy." said the tall grinning man next to me. "You and your son were here, gettin' a big order. You really tear into this stuff, don't you?"
"Sure do," I agreed. "This is fantastic barbecue."
"Reminds me of the place over near Walker Springs exit," the man said, looking at the awning as if trying to visualize a road map. "Good pork, and the hush puppies are crisp." He glanced at me. "But ol' Pressy here, she has a way of smokin' the chicken that tops anything in town. Lookit all those smokers, son."
He stepped back. "Here, buddy, you go ahead of me. I'm in no hurry."
I gave a weak protest - I was dying for some ribs - but he insisted that I move ahead of him. I thankfully moved ahead but we still chatted.
And that gives you Knoxville, Tennessee in a nutshell. Two words, really.
Food. Friends.
Now, I'm not trying to over-simplify. Knoxville is nationally known for its college sports programs at the University of Tennessee. Appalachian music and bluegrass talent seems to grow from trees. Oak Ridge nuclear technology is right down the road. The city has a lot of quirks, qualities, bells and whistles enough to intrigue anyone who visits. Just a quick look at the Civil War history books gives an idea of the heritage this city owns.
But the two building blocks I find here are exceptional meals and folks who won't take you for a stranger. Those two are virtually intertwined, too. Who hasn't been invited to a Knoxville gathering where there wasn't a table groaning with pies, cakes, salads, and enough meat to drive anyone's cholesterol to the Space Station? Ever here of the after-church suppers and socials? Heck, we practically invented 'em. Folks and food, going together hand-in-ha ...er, fork. And yes, more than one restaurant in town serves fried-green tomatoes.
It's a stereotype we can live with. Go ahead, you can tease. Just pass me a plate of slaw to go with my pulled pork.
And another plate here for my friend. Here you go, buddy - slaw and pork. And what did you say your name was...?
